Granite spires along the Cathedral Spires trail with trees and blue skey

How to Spend Five Amazing Days in the Black Hills

Let’s talk about how to spend five amazing days in the Black Hills!

If you aren’t familiar with this area, the Black Hills are located in western South Dakota and northeast Wyoming. Black Hills National Forest was not on my radar until the last couple of years. Once I realized how much there is to do and see, I knew it had to be one of our destinations during our four-week RV road trip last year. If you’re more of a visual person, check out this amazing video of the Black Hills to get a glimpse of the beauty.

Let’s jump in so you can make the most of your trip to the Black Hills!


Map of the Area

The Black Hills comprises 1.2 million acres, and is approximately 110 miles long and 70 miles wide. So, this is quite a large area we are talking about!

As you decide how to spend five amazing days in the Black Hills you can use this map to get an idea of where different places are located.

What to Do During Five Amazing Days in the Black Hills

Custer State Park

Okay, if you love to hike, enjoy scenic drives, and see tons of wildlife, you must put Custer State Park at the top of your list when you visit the Black Hills! We believe Custer State Park is on par with national parks we’ve visited. I wouldn’t be surprised if it becomes a national park in the future. It’s that good.

Custer State Park is located towards the southern area of the Black Hills. Here is a map of the park for reference.

Side note: Custer State Park is also dog-friendly so you can enjoy the park with your leashed pup!

Custer State Park entrance sign

Hiking

There are tons of amazing hikes in Custer State Park. The first one we enjoyed was Sylvan Lake Shore Trail, which we stopped at during our drive on the Needles Highway (more on that below). This is an easy, 1.1 mile loop trail around the beautiful lake. Whether or not you consider yourself a hiker, definitely spend time at Sylvan Lake. The lake is surrounded by dramatic granite rock. For a more challenging hike add on Sunday Gulch Trail, which follows the lake shore trail. Sunday Gulch Trail was closed due to poor trail conditions so we put it on our list for next time.

If you want a longer hike, check out Lovers’ Leap Trail. This is a 4.2 moderately challenging loop in the heart of Custer State Park. We hiked this trail clockwise, and can attest most of the elevation gain is at the very beginning! This trail wonders through the forest and prairie, where you will cross small bridges over a stream. It has a fairy-tale quality. This was our adventure pup’s first long hike, and he loved it! Afterwards we grabbed lunch at Lake Legion Lodge and sat outside enjoying the lake views.

Hands down our best hike in Custer State Park was Cathedral Spires Trail. We parked at the small trailhead parking area along the Needles Highway. This 1.6 mile out-and-back trail was one of our favorite hikes in 2022! The landscape is so dramatic with the granite spires. There is a bit of elevation gain, so you will get a workout. We decided to add on Little Devil’s Tower once we reached the “cathedral.” Reaching the Little Devil’s Tower summit requires a legit rock scramble, so I only recommend Little Devil’s Tower if you are comfortable with scrambling. We haven’t scrambled a ton, but thankfully a local was guiding our way so I felt more comfortable since she was familiar with the trail. Although it was intense at times, we’re really glad we did it!

One last popular hike we hoped to do but didn’t on this trip was Black Elk Peak Trail. There are different routes you can take, even one that includes Little Devil’s Tower, so do your research and plan accordingly.

When hiking and enjoying the outdoors, be sure to take adequate water (our go-to Nalgene bottles), wear appropriate footwear (love our Merrell hiking boots for him and her), sun and rain protection (love this backpack and waist pack), salty snacks, and follow leave-no-trace principles by packing out all your garbage and waste (yes, including human waste!).

Scenic Drives

There are three main scenic drives in Custer State Park.

Needles Highway

The first is Needles Highway, a beautiful 14-mile stretch of 87N through the forests and granite mountains, and two infamous, narrow tunnels. Only one car can enter at a time, and you may need to fold in your mirrors (no RVs on this road)!

There are plenty of spots to pull off along this stunning drive. Don’t miss a stop at Sylvan Lake to stretch your legs and enjoy the lake. Several popular hiking trails (see above under Hiking) depart from the Sylvan Lake area.

I would plan for at least 60-minutes to enjoy this drive, with extra time added for Sylvan Lake.

Wildlife Loop

While you will see tons of wildlife throughout Custer State Park, be sure to experience the second must-do scenic drive, the 18-mile Wildlife Loop. If time allows, plan to drive the loop during the morning and evening (talk to a ranger about the best times during your visit). Typically wildlife is most active during the mornings and evenings.

During our visit we drove the loop one evening before sunset, and didn’t have to wait long to see wildlife! We were amazed to see huge groups of elk, pronghorn, deer, prairie dogs, and bison. In some places we were able to drive (slowly) right alongside pronghorn and bison. Obviously it’s important to respect the wildlife and stay in your car as you view the animals, and maintain a safe distance.

While we didn’t see them during our visit, keep an eye out for the burros!

Plan for at least 1.5 hours to enjoy this drive, plus more if you encounter a “wildlife-jam!”

Iron Mountain Highway

The final scenic drive to prioritize in the Black Hills and Custer State Park is Iron Mountain Highway. This 17-mile drive connects Custer State Park to Mount Rushmore National Memorial. Similar to the Needles Highway, the road is narrow and twisty, with more infamous narrow tunnels, and a section of “pigtail” bridges.

Pro-tip: At a certain vantage point in the Scovel Johnson Tunnel, the tunnel actually frames Mount Rushmore in the distance! Be sure to have your camera ready to get the perfect shot.

The fact the road was constructed in the 1930’s is quite impressive. Plan at least 60-minutes for the Iron Mountain Highway drive.

As the scenic drive comes to an end (if heading north), now is a perfect time to visit Mount Rushmore!

Mount Rushmore National Memorial

I’ll be honest. A visit to the Mount Rushmore National Memorial was not at the top of my “to-do’s” during our visit to the Black Hills. I knew we had to see it because we were in the area, but I wasn’t stoked about it.

Afterwards I can say experiencing the memorial was actually better than expected. During our mid-May visit we did not experience crowds, which was nice. We also face-timed his parents so they could “see” the memorial, since they may not travel out to this area. He did a quick run through on the trails below the memorial, while I grabbed ice-cream and ran back to the truck for the pup. Don’t miss the ice-cream shop during your visit! In retrospect I should have tried the Thomas Jefferson Vanilla flavor, but cookies and cream was still solid.

A couple things to be aware of at Mount Rushmore. First, dogs are not permitted inside the memorial (in the parking area is okay). We knew we weren’t going to stay long, and temperatures outside allowed us to leave our pup in the truck while we went in. Second, there is a $10 fee to park even if you have a National Parks pass. The parking area looks new and is set up to make sure everyone keeps moving..

The nice part about the memorial is you can get in and out pretty quickly. Don’t miss this iconic stop while you are in the Black Hills!

Crazy Horse Memorial

Crazy Horse Memorial is another popular landmark in the Black Hills. While the world’s largest sculpture by carving isn’t yet complete, you can still tour the mountain to see the current progress, as well as learn more about the history and culture of the North American Indians.

We didn’t visit Crazy Horse during our visit to the Black Hills, but were able to see the mountain from the roadway and it is quite impressive.

For more information regarding tickets and tours, click here.

Wind Cave National Park & Jewel Cave National Monument

Are you on a quest to see more national parks and monuments? We love getting our passport book stamped! If you enjoy caves check out Wind Cave National Park and Jewel Cave National Monument.

Wind Cave National Park is located just outside the Black Hills to the south. This park does not require a fee to enter or hike in the park. However if you want to experience a cave tour you must purchase and book tickets in advance to guarantee your spot, as tours do sell out. We did not experience a cave tour on this visit. Instead we hiked a short trail with our pup in the park. Not all hiking trails are dog-friendly due to wildlife in the park, so be sure to talk to a ranger to understand which trails are dog-friendly.

Jewel Cave National Monument is in the southwest area of the Black Hills. We did not visit Jewel Cave during our visit, but heard very positive things while we were in the area. Similar to Wind Cave NP, you must purchase and book tickets to experience the cave. Advance reservations are a good idea since tours do sell out.

Popular Towns: Custer, Deadwood, Sturgis, & Spearfish

You’ll find quaint towns filled with history within the Black Hills area. Be sure to check out some of these towns during your visit, especially if you enjoy learning more about the history of the area, shopping, and good places to eat!

Be aware the popular Sturgis Motorcycle Rally occurs around August each year, drawing huge crowds with all the events and activities around the rally! If this doesn’t sound like your vibe, be sure to plan your visit around the Sturgis rally.

Where to Stay

Where to stay in the Black Hills depends on what you want to see and do. As I mentioned above, the Black Hills is about 110 miles long. Wherever you stay know you will drive a decent amount to explore.

During our 2022 visit Custer was home base to explore the area. We stayed at Broken Arrow Campground. Custer is in the southern end of the Black Hills, and it was close to Custer State Park, scenic drives, as well as Mount Rushmore. In addition we had restaurants, a grocery store, and other essentials close by. We loved Custer and would happily return.

There are several lodges inside Custer State Park, including the State Game Lodge, which we heard great things about. If you are looking for campgrounds, check out the Game Lodge. Apparently it was common to see bison around the campground!

If you want to explore the northern and southern areas of the Black Hills, consider either a stay in a more central place, such as Rapid City or Hill City, or split your stay between the areas you plan to explore.

Purple Pie Place a purple building with cute covered porch and colorful flags
Purple Pie Place for rhubarb pie in Custer, SD

By now you should have great ideas on how to spend five amazing days in the Black Hills, if not longer. Everyone we met who was passing through mentioned needing at least a month to do the area justice. This was our experience too.

When to Go

We visited the Black Hills in mid-May. We experienced some rain and wind during our stay, but generally enjoyed the 50 and 60-degree highs to explore and hike. The lows were in the 30s and 40s. We had a fair amount of sunny and partly sunny days.

The best part during that time of year, IMO, was experiencing shoulder season! No crowds anywhere. We generally had the trails to ourselves, and restaurants were easy to get into.

Frankly I’ll take cooler weather anytime for less crowds!

Other Places Nearby to Consider

Badlands National Park

Before or after visiting the Black Hills, consider driving about two hours east to experience Badlands National Park in South Dakota. You don’t need a ton of time in Badlands to appreciate this park’s out-of-this-world scenery and unique beauty. Plus, you’ll see tons more wildlife. Who doesn’t need more bison and prairie dogs in their life?

Need help planning a stop in Badlands? Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered here with information on how to spend two days or less in the park! Pro-tip: If you can squeeze in sunrise or sunset you won’t be sad.

Pastel colors across landscape during sunrise at Big Badlands Overlook
Sunrise from Big Badlands Overlook

Devil’s Tower National Monument

Devil’s Tower National Monument is located in Wyoming, about 2-2.5 hours away from the Black Hills, depending on where you depart.

We did not visit Devil’s Tower during our trip, but it is high on our list when we visit Wyoming in the future!

Instead, we headed south to Rocky Mountain National Park after our stay in the Black Hills.

That’s a Wrap!

That was a lot of information on how to spend five amazing days in the Black Hills. Now I bet you understand why this area should be on your radar as you consider future trip planning. You will not be disappointed!

We are currently on the road in our RV, escaping to Georgia and Florida for (hopefully!) warmer weather. If you have any questions about traveling in an RV, tell me in the comments.

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